The sun shines down on the Algarve coast of Portugal, drawing the tourists onto the beach. In the nights, glittering parties light up the sky.

Further inland, on the ramparts of a castle high in the mountains, a group of people sip wine and take in the view. This is the other side of Portugal- historic, warm, friendly and utterly gorgeous. And it is best experienced on a bicycle.

In the north, the Alentejo vineyards stretch on and on, too stunning to be wasted zipping past in a car. The road is lined with cork trees, each with a unique sign painted on, waiting to be harvested every nine years. The road unfurls, inviting cyclists to pedal on. They cycle unencumbered – at the end of the day’s ride, their luggage will be waiting for them at their vineyard-hotels, along with the finest wine and a gourmet meal. Portugal is truly heaven for the immersive traveller. The locals are lovely hosts- an unplanned halt at a quaint village could lead to a hearty country meal and lively conversation. Many days, rides are from palace to palace, some of them so high up that you can look down on eagles in flight.

Elsewhere, cyclists traverse the enchanting Vincentine coast, with the blue waters as their constant companion. Long picnics are taken in the Arrabida Natural Park, soaking in the scenery. There are meals in the little fishing villages that dot the coast and sunbathing on the golden sands. The UNESCO Heritage town of Evora draws in travellers. The pace is relaxed.